080314食鱼民族的新问题

华南虎

080314食鱼民族的新问题

魚偏（うおへん）に雪と書けばタラ、冬だとコノシロ、では神は？　漢字にならって日本で作られた国字には、魚偏の文字が一番多いという。判じ物さながらの難読ぞろいだが、日本人と魚の深い縁を示す証しでもある。

鱼字旁上加个雪字读做“塔拉（注：鳕鱼）”，加个冬字读做“括诺西罗（注：鲚鱼）”，那么加个神字，怎么读呢？日本模仿汉字而自制的国字中，据说鱼字旁的字最多。个个都像字谜似地不知道怎么读，但这也是日本人和鱼因缘之深的有力佐证。

大正の頃は「一大国民が食糧の主要なものを海にあおいでいる例は他にない」と、欧州の地理学者を驚かせた。ところが近年、かつてない「魚ばなれ」が食卓に起きている。さばくどころか、さわれない若い人もいるらしい。歯止めをかける取り組みが、各地で芽生えている。

大正年间，欧洲的地理学者曾对此大为震惊，“一国国民的主要食粮仰仗于大海，这是绝无仅有的”。可近年来，在日本的餐桌上正上演着史无前例的“去鱼化”。据说有些年轻人不要说拾掇鱼了，连碰都不碰一下。为阻止这种现象的蔓延，各地都在举办活动。

東京の築地市場の一角では「おさかなマイスター講座」が昨秋から始まった。目利きや料理の仕方などを初心者も学べる。１１回で１２万円余と受講料は高めだが人気は高い。卒業生には、知識を周りに広める「語り部」の期待もかかる。

在东京築地水产市場的一角，自去年秋天起，就开始举办了“吃鱼专家讲座”。教人怎么挑鱼，怎么做鱼，连纯外行都能跟着入门。11次讲座收费12万日元稍稍高了点儿，可人气更高。同时也期待着毕业生能向自己身边的人去传播鱼的知识。

秋田での講座は、魚介を生物学的に学んだあと、料理をする。先月は秋田大の石井照久准教授がハマグリの心臓やエラの講義をし、酒蒸しにして参加者と食べた。「いただくものの命のさまを知ることは、人生の滋味になる」と、料理好きの石井氏は言う。

在秋田开办的讲座，采取的则是在学习了鱼、贝类的生物学知识后在把它们做成菜的方法。上个月，秋田大学的石井照久副教授就在讲解了文蛤的心脏、腮后，加酒清蒸，并和听讲者一起把它吃进了肚子。爱好烹调的石井先生说，“懂得了你所吃的东西的生命形态，就成了人生的况味了”。

親が子に伝える「料理」をつづった、石垣りんさんの詩を思い出す。〈鰹（かつお）でも／鯛（たい）でも／鰈（かれい）でも／よい。丸ごと一匹の姿をのせ／よく研いだ庖丁（ほうちょう）をしっかり握りしめて…頭をブスリと落すことから／教えなければならない〉。

于是，我想起了石垣先生那首吟咏“料理”母女相传的诗。“不管是鲣(jiān)鱼/还是鲷(diāo)鱼/还是鲽(dié)鱼/行了。那出一整条来/握紧磨好的菜刀……“喀嚓”剁下头来/就得这么教才行”。

様々な魚偏が、人の命につながる。乱獲を戒めつつ舌鼓を打ちたい。ところで冒頭の「鰰」は秋田の特産ハタハタ。獲（と）りすぎによる激減の教訓を残した美味（うま）くて苦い魚である。

各种各样鱼字旁的汉字，是和人的生命息息相关的。但要在不滥捕的前提下尽情地享用。开头提到的“鰰”，就是秋田出产的“哈答哈答”（注：雷鱼）。一种因过度捕捞而数量骤减的，美味却又留下了苦涩教训的鱼


《朝日新闻》的英译：
Overfishing is a losing proposition for all
03/15/2008

The kanji character used in Japan for tara, cod, is made up of two radicals--the hen radical denoting "fish" and the tsukuri radical denoting "snow." If the tsukuri radical is changed to "winter," the resulting kanji reads konoshiro (gizzard shad). Here's a quiz: If the tsukuri radical is kami (god), what fish is that?

Of Japan's kanji characters adapted from Chinese ideographs, the most numerous are said to be those that have the "fish" radical. For many people, figuring out which fish they stand for is like struggling with a brainteaser. But in any case, the profusion of such kanji characters is proof of Japanese people's deep ties with fish.

During the Taisho Era (1912-1926), a surprised European geographer was said to have remarked to the effect that Japan was without parallel for its heavy reliance on the sea as a food staple.

Lately, however, fish have decreased from the Japanese dining table like never before. Many young Japanese are apparently not only unable to gut and fillet whole fish, but can't even bear to touch them. To curb this trend, various attempts are being made around the nation.

In a corner of Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market, a program called "Osakana Meister Koza" (Lecture to be fish experts) started last autumn. Intended to help people acquire a good eye for judging the quality of fish and learn how to prepare them, the program is open to anyone, including complete beginners. The 11-session course costs a hefty 120,000 yen, but enrollment is brisk. The organizers hope graduates will impart their learning to people around them.

A similar program in Akita offers a biology lecture on fish and other seafood, followed by a cooking class. Last month, Teruhisa Ishii, an associate professor at Akita University, lectured about the heart and gills of clams. Then participants steamed clams with sake rice wine and ate them together.

Ishii, who loves to cook, said, "Understanding the life of the food you eat can enrich your own life."

I am reminded of a poem by Rin Ishigaki (1920-2004) about a parent teaching his or her child how to cook. It goes: "Whether it's bonito or sea bream or flatfish/ Any fish will do/ Place a whole fish on the cutting board/ To grip a well-sharpened kitchen knife firmly ... and hack off the fish's head/ You must begin by teaching your child so."

All kinds of fish nourish us humans. We should gratefully enjoy them while cautioning ourselves against overfishing. Back to the quiz I gave earlier: The answer is hatahata (sandfish), an Akita specialty. We have learned a bitter lesson from this delicious fish--that overfishing has drastically depleted its population.

--The Asahi Shimbun, March 14(IHT/Asahi: March 15,2008)

鳕鱼

鲚鱼

雷鱼

lindalin2000

日本的生鱼片真好吃啊，怀念。。。。

abyssthinice

“鰹（かつお）でも／鯛（たい）でも／鰈（かれい）でも／よい。”中的“でもよい”似应连读。

所以似应译为：
“不管是鲣(jiān)鱼/还是鲷(diāo)鱼/还是鲽(dié)鱼/都行。”



“…頭をブスリと落すことから／教えなければならない”中的“ことから教えなければならない”似应连读，意为“必须从……开始教起”。