天声人语 20110128 冬日美食――鰤鱼

reiuka2

冬日美食――鰤鱼
2011年1月28日（金）付
　冬の夕餉（ゆうげ）の楽しみにブリ大根がある。生臭みを消す湯通しやアク取りの手間と引き換えに、頭やカマのうまみが仕事をしてくれる。ご飯によし燗酒（かんざけ）によしの総菜は、味が染み込む翌日がまたおいしい。
       冬夜的饭桌上，鰤鱼炖萝卜是道令人期待的菜。尽管要先用开水过一遍以便去掉泥腥味，还要把汤汁倒掉，但做出的鰤鱼那鲜美无比的头部和腩部让人觉得做这些这些工序实在物有所值。这道菜既适合下饭又适合下酒，而且放到第二天味道渗进去后还是十分美味。
   ソムリエの田崎真也さんによると、この魚には赤ワインも合う。ブリ大根なら、やや軽めで熟成が進んだもの、照り焼きは粉山椒（こなざんしょう）のようなスパイス香を備えたものと相性がいいそうだ。〈寒鰤（かんぶり）を煮る幸せや永らえて〉原田マサ恵。
        据美食家田崎真也介绍，这鱼跟红酒也是很相配的。如果是鰤鱼炖萝卜，就选比较低度年份较长的酒；如果是炭烧鰤鱼，就要选具备粉山椒那样的椒香味的酒。“冬日煮寒鰤，幸福又长寿”（原田真惠）。
   この海の幸が空前の豊漁という。定置網の水揚げが去年の数十倍という港もあり、平年の半値ほどで売られている。ブランド産地、富山県氷見（ひみ）市の学校では給食に塩焼きが出た。こういう地の利はうらやましい。大漁の前には、氷見産を装う品も出回った。
        据闻这来自大海的美食今年获得了空前的大丰收。有的港口定置渔网的起网次数达到去年的数十倍之多，而售价也只有平常年份的一半左右。在鰤鱼的著名产地富山市冰见市的学校里，甚至在给学生提供的午餐中加入了盐烧鰤鱼。这产地之便可真让人羡慕。渔获丰收，许多谎称是冰见产的鰤鱼也大量上市。
   ブリはオホーツク海から台湾あたりを回遊する。この冬、産地の富山湾や若狭湾で魚影が濃いのは、強く張り出した寒気ゆえという。産卵のため日本海を南下する寒ブリの群れが、低温の海域を嫌って沿岸に近づいたらしい。
       鰤鱼是从鄂霍次克海出发游到台湾附近再往回游的。产地富山湾和若狭湾之所以今年冬天鰤鱼大量聚集，据说是由于今年的寒潮势力特别强大。因产卵而南下的寒鰤群似乎因为不想呆在低温的海域，都游到沿岸附近来了。
   背の青緑に、黄の帯を挟んで腹の銀白。厳冬の日本海に染められた魚が網の中で輝き、身をくねらす。ひと抱えはある２０キロ級の大物もまじるという。寒の恵みを求め、こちらも近所の鮮魚棚を回遊する日が続きそうだ。
       青绿的脊背，银白色的腹部，参杂着黄色的条纹。带着满身严冬日本海气息的鰤鱼在网中弓着身子，银光闪闪。据说其中还有一些要用双手才能抱起，重达20公斤的庞然大物。看来这几天我也得天天到附近的鲜鱼挡转转，找找这寒冬带来的美味了。
   日本海側は、これまた記録的な大雪に泣かされている。お年寄りが守る家では、除雪中の災難が絶えない。このブリ景気、冬将軍が空の不始末を海で埋め合わせているのだろう。雪国の労苦を思い、四季と四海に謝し、出世魚にお供すべき今宵（こよい）の一献を選ぶ。
       日本海一侧，今年又因为创纪录的大雪而伤透脑筋。在一些只有老年人居住的房子，因为除雪而发生的事故接连出现。这次的鰤鱼大丰收，大概是冬天的老天爷想把他在地上做的坏事在海里做补偿吧。让我们心中想着雪国生活的艰辛，感谢四季和环抱我们四周的大海，选上一款鰤鱼做今天的晚餐吧。

zdenny0001

生臭みを消す湯通しやアク取：将黄尾鰤鱼汆水去腥或者煮的时候撇去浮沫。
カマ：是指连着鱼鳃盖下面的那一块，不是鱼腩哦。
照り焼き：照烧一词已经直接中文化了。
ソムリエ：侍酒师
水揚げ：渔获量
身をくねらす：因为是鱼儿们，我就直接翻译成“活蹦乱跳”了
黄の帯を挟んで腹の銀白：银白色的鱼身带状的黄色条纹
出世魚にお供すべき今宵（こよい）の一献を選ぶ：为晚上的小酌选一种配鰤鱼的酒。かな？
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全为个人意见，仅供参考。

reiuka2

回复 zdenny0001 的帖子

嘿嘿，你的意见都很正确，谢谢了。

今天的翻译错误真多啊，惭愧惭愧。

对了，能不能也去评价一下《告白》的翻译。

zdenny0001

因为我对吃的东西很感兴趣，嘿嘿，所以看今天的天声也很开心啊。

abyssthinice

VOX POPULI: Thank the gods for bumper yellowtail harvest
2011/01/29


"Buri daikon," a stew of yellowtail and daikon radish, is my favorite winter dish. It takes some work to cook it right: First you have to blanch the fish so it won't smell too "fishy," and then you have to keep skimming off the scum that rise to the surface while the stew is simmering. But your labors will be amply rewarded by the rich "umami" (savoriness) the fish's head produces.

The dish goes well with plain white rice, but it's also delicious with hot sake sipped slowly. And it's good even the next day, when it becomes even more flavorful.

Sommelier Shinya Tasaki says that yellowtail goes well with red wine. For buri daikon, he recommends a wine that's relatively light but well-aged. If the fish is seasoned with sweet-and-savory teriyaki sauce, he advises, you should go with a wine with a bit of spice, perhaps with a hint of "sansho" Sichuan pepper.

A haiku by Masae Harada goes: "The joy of stewing yellowtail in winter/ Thanks to my long life."

I understand we are being blessed this year with an unprecedented bumper catch of this delectable gift from the sea. Some ports are reporting fixed-shore-net hauls that are well over 10 times the size of last year's tonnages, and the fish are being sold at half the price they fetch in an average year.

In the Toyama Prefecture port city of Himi, known for its prime yellowtail from Toyama Bay, schoolchildren are being served broiled yellowtail for lunch. I envy those kids. Before this year, unethical seafood dealers were passing off yellowtail from other regions as Himi yellowtail.

The yellowtail migrates from the Sea of Okhotsk to the waters around Taiwan. The yellowtail population is especially dense this winter in Toyama Bay and Wakasa Bay, reportedly because of a strong cold front hovering over the Sea of Japan. It appears that schools of yellowtail, migrating south in those waters to spawn, are swimming closer to the coastline this year to avoid the frigid zones.

The yellowtail has a blue-green back, a yellow stripe on its side, and its belly is silver white. As if dyed in these colors in the wintry Sea of Japan, these fish are a gorgeous sight when they glisten and wriggle in the fishnet. Some are big, weighing in at 20 kilograms or more. In the days to come, I can well imagine myself shopping around for this seasonal delicacy in the fresh seafood sections of neighborhood supermarkets.

The skies keep dumping record amounts of snow in regions along the Sea of Japan. We keep hearing sad news of homeowners trying to shovel snow on their own and injuring themselves, some fatally.

Perhaps the gods of winter are giving us this bumper yellowtail catch this year to make up for the out-of-control weather.

While sympathizing with the people in snowbound regions, I thank the four seasons and the four seas for this bounty. I wonder what I'll make for supper tonight that will go well with yellowtail.

--The Asahi Shimbun, Jan. 28